Istanbul ... we definitely ain't in Kansas (or Texas) any more ...
This is a city of between 13 and 15 million people ... that's a lotta people and as far as I could tell they all drive cars downtown ... I thought the traffic in Rome was bad (and it was) but Istanbul seems to have more drivers and fewer associated hand gestures!
We began our tour today by being met by our guide and driver (you really can't imagine the relief I felt when I saw the "
Mr Millsap" sign in our guides' hand as we exited the port terminal in a mass of humanity leaving the ship ... as with Ephesus I had booked and we all paid for this tour over the internet ... with no real clue as to whether or not we had sent our credit card numbers off to Turkey only to be used to supply weaponry to Al Ceada <sp>. I feel somewhat responsible for these tours and until I actually see we have indeed secured what we hoped we purchased I'm a
little on edge.
Our guide "Tolga" was a young man (34 yrs old) with a degree in Civil Engineering ... why he's guiding tours I can't really say but he was pleasant, informative, very direct about how he felt about the radical Islam clerics and spoke tolerably good English (sooooooo much better than my Turkish!!).
As on our previous tours he suggested we scoot boots to get ahead of the cruise line package tours of hundreds of people who were no doubt headed to the same sports as us. Our tour was scheduled for as much as 6 hours. (through the cruise line this was a $749 tour ... we paid just slightly less than that for the Ephesus and Istanbul tours total together -- we booked both tours thru the same company).
Our first stop was the
Hippodrome which is basically not much more than a large elongated oval "area" where Roman circus (chariots and such) games were played ... honestly I didn't see what all the fuss was about ... it has several obelisks that mark the center line of the area but beyond that it's just a "space" in the middle of downtown Istanbul mostly covered in wide sidewalks and streets now days. Tolga did a lengthy "lecture" on why the area was important to the Turkish people, how the 3 remaining obelisks were transported and erected but I was a bit underwhelmed.
Just next to the Hippodrome is the
Blue Mosque ... this actually was worth the visit ... it is surrounded by 6 "minarets" which are the tall spires you will see in the pictures from which the Muslim faithful are called to prayer facing Mecca 5 times a day. The minarets are in and of themselves a site to behold as they glitter with gold caps high in the sky and surround the mosque itself. The "Blue" mosque is so named because of the more than 20,000 blue Iznik tiles that adorn its walls inside. These are all hand painted and valued at tens of thousands of dollars
each! The interior walls are also covered in many many tons of gold decorations. The sheer size of the mosque is startling as you gaze up to the top of the domed ceilings. To enter the mosque we were required to remove our shoes and carry them around in a small plastic bag until we exited. While in the mosque our guide explained about how the call to prayer was done and how afterwards the "Imam" or head honcho cleric would then ascend a set of stairs and "preach" the daily lesson ... it is, according to our guide, these "lessons" that have in some instances corrupted the actual beliefs of the Islam religion and as in Iran have basically turned away from the Koran and instilled in the people many false beliefs. Our guide said he has not attended a service in a mosque in over two years for that reason. We got a decidedly different version of Islam than we often hear about on Western TV.
>From the Blue Mosque we walked over to the
Topkapi Palace museum. This was the former palace of the Ottoman sultans (the guys we see in the movies that look like they have a giant towel wrapped around their heads for a hat). The absolute opulence of the artifacts in the museum was incredible! Among many other things we saw jewel encrusted swords, belts, garments, knives, bows, and an entire glass "box" filled to the brim with loose emeralds ... big emeralds as in chicken egg sized emeralds. Most amazing to me was the solid gold baby cradle with hundreds of emeralds, rubies, diamonds and other precious stones encrusted all over it. We also saw a 56 carat diamond ... looked like it might be a bit gaudy for an engagement ring! This is likely as close as I will ever be to several Ming dynasty pieces of pottery.
Leaving the palace we walked over to
St. Sophia museum which "was" a mosque and a church at various times in the 5 or so hundreds of years since it was first constructed but is now solely a museum. It was interesting to see the combinations of the Christian and Islamic holy symbols and icons juxtaposed against each other in this one place.
After we let St. Sophia's our guide walked us over to a small sidewalk restaurant were we enjoyed a "typical I suppose" Turkish meal ... there were no tacos or enchiladas on the menu!
Next we jumped into our Mercedes Bentz "minivan" and drove through again narrow, windy, crowded streets to the
Grand Bazaar ...
Picture any Mexican Mercado you have ever been in ... now ... picture it covered with domed ceilings and housing over 4,000 shops, its own school, its own mosque, post office and police station. ... hence the title
Grand ... this Bazaar was establish in the mid-1400's and is still going strong today.
We were given some helpful information about how not to get hopelessly lost in the warrens of the Bazaar and then shooed off on our way to shop ... it really didn't take long to become lost ...I'd say ... 3 minutes maybe 5 ... uh oh ... but in time we managed to find the key "street" Tolga had told us to look for and knew we coud escape. None of our group was particularly taken with the shopping experience in the bazaar ... haggling is expected and the quality of goods is definitely suspect. A few small items were purchased and we escaped into the somewhat chilly and blustery late afternoon air ... we met up with our guide who called our driver and specified where to pick us up ... due to the density of the area and the absolute crazy traffic congestion it was important to give the driver enough of a head start that he could arrive at the same corner as we did at about the same time or we would have a 30+ minute wait as he circled back aound.
We were delivered back to the port safe and sound and grateful that we did not try to do that tour of Istanbul on our own ...
Tomorrow around noon we will be at the small Greek island
Mykonos which is said to be a destination spot for the world's
"Jet Set Crowd" ... uh oh ...
Bade